Leopard Gecko Basics

A 10 to 20 gallon fish tank is a good size for housing juveniles, although as they grow you may need a larger enclosure; housing adults individually is recommended to prevent fighting. Paper towels, newspaper, indoor/outdoor carpet and a paper pulp product are the safest beddings to use; sand and mulch are not recommended as they are difficult to clean and may be accidentally eaten.

Reptiles regulate their temperature through their environment and need supplemental heat. You can provide heat with an under the tank heater and an incandescent light bulb, or a ceramic heater. Temperatures should reach 80 to 88 F on the warm side and 70 to 75 F on the cool side. Always measure the temperature at the bottom of the cage and/or at the basking site where the reptile actually sits. Leopard geckos do not require a source of UVB light like other reptiles. A humidity box can be provided to increase the moisture in the environment.

In general, geckos should be fed crickets as the majority of their diet, but they can also be fed waxworms or mealworm larvae in small amounts. Juveniles should be fed daily and the insects should be dusted at each feeding with a calcium/vitamin D supplement, and with a multivitamin once a week. Adults should be fed every two to four days and the insects should be dusted with a calcium/Vitamin D supplement at each feeding and every other week with a multivitamin. Do not leave uneaten crickets in the enclosure as they can cause injuries to the gecko. Fresh water should be offered daily in a large dish. Soaking your reptile in shallow, warm water for 15 to 20 minutes several times weekly can improve hydration and help with shedding.